Cues

What each part of a cue does, the usual sizes, and which cue you need for what.

Tip
Leather, 11.75–13 mm across. It holds the chalk and grips the cue ball. Soft tips grip more; hard tips last longer.
Ferrule
The hard white collar behind the tip. It protects the shaft when the cue ball is struck.
Shaft
The front half you slide through your bridge. Its taper and stiffness change how the cue feels and how much it squirts.
Joint
Where the two halves screw together. A good joint is tight and silent.
Wrap
The grip area: Irish linen, leather, or no wrap at all.
Bumper
The rubber end that protects the butt and the floor.

Sizes

Source for the WPA limits: WPA Equipment Specifications.

Playing cue
The cue for every normal shot. Most are about 147 cm and 510–600 g.
Break cue
For the break shot. A very hard tip and a stiff shaft transfer more power and save your playing tip.
Jump cue
Short, light and with a very hard tip, for jump shots. WPA rules require at least 101.6 cm.
Jump-break cue
A break cue whose butt comes apart to turn it into a jump cue.
Short cue
122 or 132 cm long, for rooms where the wall is close to the table.
Extension
Screws onto the butt to make the cue longer for shots far across the table.

Standard maple
Solid wood. Classic feel and the cheapest option.
Low-deflection
Lighter at the front, so the cue ball squirts less when you use side spin.
Carbon fibre
Very low squirt, doesn’t warp, and the same feel in every room. Costs more.

Why this matters: Squirt in the glossary.

Start with a house cue. Pick the straightest one: roll it on the table and watch for a wobble.
Your first own cue: around 19 oz (540 g), a 12.5–13 mm medium tip and a standard maple shaft is a safe all-rounder.
Try before you buy. Weight and balance are personal; borrow a friend’s cue for an evening.
Spend on the shaft and the tip, not the decoration. A plain cue plays as well as an inlaid one.
Get a hard case. Heat, damp and knocks are what bend cues.